Innovation in Estonian heritage-based knitting

The case of embroidered gloves

Authors

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.7577/formakademisk.5425

Keywords:

innovation, tradition, hand knitting, Embroidery

Abstract

Innovation is an intentionally introduced significant and positive change to an existent practice. In crafts, innovation is challenging because, by nature, crafts are based on traditions and collective knowledge; they involve practising something the way it has always been practiced. If anything changes, it is copied rapidly by other craftspeople. In this article, I explain innovation in traditional glove-knitting through the concept of transformation of the tradition, and I analyse the case using a method called technique-concept-utility-structure-material (TCUSM), which was introduced by Adhi Nugraha in 2010. According to this method, one must know the tradition thoroughly in order to make conscious and justifiable changes to it. One must compare and explain what is traditional and what is new in one’s products. I combine this method with an artistic autoethnographic approach. Within my personal practice, the most significant change to the original involves combining and borrowing aesthetic elements from other traditional textiles or developing my own combinations of patterns and colours. First, I give a short over­view of the history of embroidered gloves in Estonia, then demonstrate, with the help of explanations and photographs, contemporary gloves, made by me.

Author Biography

Kristi Jõeste, University of Tartu

Lecturer in native textiles (MA)
Viljandi Culture Academy

References

Bartleet, B.-L. (2021). Artistic Autoethnography. In T. E. Adams, S. H. Jones, C. Ellis (Eds.), Handbook of Autoethnography (2nd ed., pp. 132–145). Routledge. https://doi.org/10.4324/9780429431760

Eesti Entsüklopeedia (2023, June 6). Rahvuskoosseis Eestis [National team in Estonia]. http://entsyklopeedia.ee/artikkel/rahvuskoosseis_eestis

Eesti Statistikaamet (2023, June 6). Innovation. https://www.stat.ee/en/find-statistics/statistics-theme/technology-innovation-and-rd/innovation

Ehn, B. (2011). DOING-IT-YOURSELF. Autoethnography of Manual Work. Ethnologia Europaea, 41(1), pp. 52–63. https://doi.org/10.16995/ee.1077

Fosness, H. (2009). Håndplagg til bunader og folkedrakter (2nd ed.). Cappelen Damm.

Honko, L. (1998). Folklooriprotsess [Folklore process]. Mäetagused, (6), 56–84. https://doi.org/10.7592/MT1998.06.honko

Juliani, A. J. (2017). Intentional Innovation. How to Guide Risk-Taking, Build Creative Capacity, and Lead Change. Eye On Education. https://doi.org/10.4324/9781315637266

Jõeste, K., Ehin, K. (2012). Ornamented journey. Saara Publishing House.

Jõeste, K. (2022). Estonian knitting 3. Mittens. Saara Publishing House.

Jõeste, K., & Sarv Õ. (2023). Kindad. In M. Tamjärv. Seto rahvarõivad (pp. 419–433). Seto Käsitüü Kogo MTÜ.

Kabur, A., Pink, A., Meriste, M. (2011). Designs and patterns from Muhu island: a needlework tradition from Estonia. Saara Publishing House.

Kahn, B. K. (2018). Understanding innovation. Business Horizons, 61(3), pp. 453–460. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.bushor.2018.01.011

Nugraha, A. (2010). Transforming tradition for sustainability through ’TCUSM’. Research in Arts and Education, 3, 20–36. https://doi.org/10.54916/rae.118730

Pink, A., Reimann, S., Jõeste, K. (2016). Estonian knitting 1. Customs and techniques. Saara Publishing House.

Pink, A. (2018). Estonian knitting 2. Socks and stockings. Saara Publishing House.

Viires, A. (2008). Ajalugu ja rahvakultuur. In A. Viires, & E. Vunder (Eds.), Eesti rahvakultuur [Estonian folk culture] (2nd ed., pp 40–50). Eesti Entsüklopeediakirjastus.

Väänänen, N., Pöllänen, S. (2020). Conceptualizing Sustainable Craft: Concept Analysis of Literature. The Design Journal, 23(2), 263–285. https://doi.org/10.1080/14606925.2020.1718276

Downloads

Published

2023-09-21

How to Cite

Jõeste, K. (2023). Innovation in Estonian heritage-based knitting: The case of embroidered gloves. FormAkademisk, 16(4). https://doi.org/10.7577/formakademisk.5425

Cited by