Learning challenge accepter - or not?
Designing T-shirts or demanding personalized garments
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.7577/formakademisk.5726Emneord (Nøkkelord):
Clothing design, design education, circumstance-based designSammendrag
This research studies garment design and production as an integrated learning assignment. In this type of setting, students face – often implicit – design constraints arising from the production phase: time, cost and material resources, but also students' knowledge and skills related to processes, tools, technical structures and technologies. The qualitative data analysis revealed that skill level did not dictate the level of learning challenge undertaken, and that not all novices' work remained limited to simple designs and structures. We discuss tailoring pedagogical practices according to students' needs by balancing familiarity with the challenge and the possibilities of circumstance-based design. We also suggest that, together with students' beliefs about the learnability of design creativity, all constraints should be openly discussed.
Referanser
Austerlitz, N., & James, A. (2008). Reflections on emotional journeys: A new perspective for reading fashion students' PPD statements. Art, Design & Communication in Higher Education, 6(3), 209–19. https://doi.org/10.1386/adch.6.3.209_1
Braun, V., & Clarke, V. (2006). Using thematic analysis in psychology. Qualitative Research in Psychology, 3(2), 77–101. https://doi.org/10.1191/1478088706qp063oa
Chapman, J. (2005). Emotionally Durable Design: Objects, Experiences and Empathy. Earthscan. https://doi.org/10.4324/9781315738802
Cross, N. (2004). Expertise in design: An overview. Design Studies, 25, 427–41. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.destud.2004.06.002
Cross, N. (2011). Design Thinking: Understanding How Designers Think and Work. Berg. https://doi.org/10.5040/9781350305090
Eckert, C.M., & Stacey, M.K. (2014). Constraints and conditions: drivers for design process. In A. Chakrabarti & L.T.M. Blessing (Eds.), An Anthology of Theories and Models of Design (pp. 395–415). Springer. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4471-6338-1_19
Finnish National Board of Education (FNBoE). (2014). Perusopetuksen opetussuunnitelman perusteet (National Core Curriculum for Basic Education 2014). FNBoE. https://www.oph.fi/fi/koulutus-ja-tutkinnot/perusopetuksen-opetussuunnitelman-perusteet. Accessed 1 April 2023.
Finnish National Board of Education (FNBoE). (2020). Käsityön lukiodiplomi (Crafts diploma). FNBoE. https://www.oph.fi/fi/koulutus-ja-tutkinnot/kasityon-lukiodiplomi. Accessed 1 April 2023.
Garment. (n.d.). Cambridge Dictionary. Cambridge University Press. Accessed 1 April 2023 from https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/garment
Halverson, E. R., & Sheridan, K. M. (2014). Arts education and the learning sciences, in R. K. Saywer (Ed.), The Cambridge Handbook of the Learning Sciences (pp. 626–646). Cambridge University Press. https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9781139519526
Hakkarainen, K. & Seitamaa-Hakkarainen, P. (2023). Learning by Inventing: Theoretical Foundations, in T. Korhonen, K. Kangas, & L. Salo. (Eds.) Invention pedagogy—The Finnish Approach to Maker Education (pp.15–27). Routledge. https://doi.org/10.4324/9781003287360-3
Haug, A. (2019). Psychologically durable design: Definitions and approaches. The Design Journal, 22(2), 143–67. https://doi.org/10.1080/14606925.2019.1569316
Herrmann, M.E., Goldschmidt, G., & Miron-Spektor, E. (2018, January 31st - February 2nd). The ins and out of the constraint-creativity relationship. In E. Dekoninck, A. Wodehouse, C. Snider, G. Georgiev, & G. Cascini (Eds.) DS89: Proceedings of The Fifth International Conference on Design Creativity (ICDC2018), Bath, UK. https://www.designsociety.org/publication/40712/THE+INS+AND+OUTS+OF+THE+CONSTRAINT-+CREATIVITY+RELATIONSHIP
Härkki, T., Seitamaa-Hakkarainen, P., Vartiainen, H., Saarinen, A., & Hakkarainen, K. (2023). Non-linear maker pedagogy in Finnish craft education. Techne serien - Forskning i slöjdpedagogik och slöjdvetenskap, 30(1), 1–17. https://doi.org/10.7577/TechneA.4998
Härkki, T., Seitamaa-Hakkarainen, P. & Hakkarainen, K. (2018). Line by line, part by part: Collaborative sketching for designing. International Journal of Technology and Design Education, 28(2), 471-494. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10798-016-9379-7
Kaiser, S. (1998). The Social Psychology of Clothing: Symbolic Appearances in Context. Fairchild.
Kallio, H., Pietilä, A.-M., Johson, M., & Kangasniemi, M. (2016). Systematic methodological review: Developing a framework for a qualitative semi-structured interview guide. Journal of Advanced Nursing, 72(12), 2954–65. https://doi.org/10.1111/jan.13031
Kangas, K. (2014). The Artifact Project. Promoting Design Learning in the Elementary Classroom. Home Economics and Craft Studies Research Reports 35. PhD Dissertation. University of Helsinki. http://hdl.handle.net/10138/136526
Korhonen, T., Kangas, K., & Salo. L. (Eds.) (2023). Invention pedagogy—The Finnish Approach to Maker Education. Routledge. https://doi.org/10.4324/9781003287360
Laamanen, T.-K. (2012). Design learning in Textiles Teacher Education challenges. Procedia -Social and Behavioral Sciences 45, 257–267. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.sbspro.2012.06.562
Laamanen, T.-K., & Seitamaa-Hakkaranen, P. (2014). Constraing the open-ended design task by interpreting sources of inspiration. Art, Design and Communication in Higher Education, 13(2), 135–156. https://doi.org/10.1386/adch.13.2.135_1
Lahti, H., Kangas, K., Härkki, T., & Seitamaa-Hakkarainen, P. (2022). Challenging creativity constraints: Three design studios in craft teacher education. Techne Series: Research in Sloyd Education and Craft Science A, 29(1), 1-12. https://doi.org/10.7577/TechneA.4250
Lahti, H. & Nuutinen, A. (2014). Yhteisöllinen konseptisuunnittelu vaatetussuunnittelun lähtökohtana. [Collaborative concept design as a starting point for garment design]. In A. Nuutinen, P. Fernström, S. Kokko & H. Lahti (Eds.) Suunnittelusta käsin. Käsityön tutkimuksen ja opetuksen vuoropuhelua. Home Economics and Craft Studies Research Reports 36, (pp. 134–152. University of Helsinki. http://hdl.handle.net/10138/153027
Lamb, J. M., & Kallal, M. J. (1992). A conceptual framework for apparel design. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 10(2), 42–47. https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X9201000207
Lawson, B. (2006). How Designers Think? The Design Process Demystified. 4th ed. Elsevier.
https://doi.org/10.4324/9780080454979
Laxström, K., Kylmänen, A., Oksanen, J., & Nuutinen, A. (2021). Olosuhdeperustainen suunnittelu [Circumstance-based design]. In S. Heinonen & S. Toivonen (Eds.) Futura, 40(4), 16. Tulevaisuuden tutkimuksen seura [The Finnish Society for Future Studies].
Lee, N. (2009). Project methods as the vehicle for learning in undergraduate design education: A typology. Design Studies, 30, 541–60. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.destud.2009.03.002
Lin, X. (2023). Fashion design education: A study of fashion design educational systems of Italy and China. The International Journal of Design Education, 17(1), 199–212. https://doi.org/10.18848/2325-128X/CGP/v17i01/199-212
Marjanen, P., & Metsärinne, M. (2019). The development of craft education in Finnish schools. Nordic Journal of Educational History, 6(1), 49–70. https://doi.org/10.36368/njedh.v6i1.124
McKenney, S., & Reeves, T. C. (2013). Conducting educational design research. Routledge. https://doi.org/10.4324/9781315105642
Nuutinen, A., Fernström, P., Kokko, S., & Lahti, H. (Eds.) (2014). Suunnittelusta käsin. Käsityön tutkimuksen ja opetuksen vuoropuhelua. Home Economics and Craft Studies Research Reports 36. University of Helsinki. http://hdl.handle.net/10138/153027
Oh, Y., Ishikazi, S., Gross, M. D., & Do, Ellen Y.-L. (2013). A theoretical framework of design critiquing in architecture studios. Design Studies, 34, 302–25. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.destud.2012.08.004
Oksanen-Lyytikäinen, J. (2015). Costume as Art and as a Tool. PhD dissertation. Home Economics and Craft Studies Research Reports 37. University of Helsinki. http://hdl.handle.net/10138/153100
Omwami, A. (2024). From Inspiration to Garment Ideas: Elucidating the Threads of Inspiration in Apparel Design Ideation. PhD dissertation. Helsinki Studies in Education 194. University of Helsinki. http://hdl.handle.net/10138/587753
Papanek, V. (1995). Design for the Real World: Human Ecology and Social Change. Bantam Books. https://doi.org/10.7551/mitpress/9370.001.0001
Purcell, A. T., & Gero, J. S. (1995). Drawings and the design process. Design Studies, 19, 389–430. https://doi.org/10.1016/s0142-694x(98)00015-5
Pöllänen, S. (2009). Contextualising craft: Pedagogical models for craft education. International Journal of Art and Design Education, 28(3), 249–60. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1476-8070.2009.01619.x
Pöllänen, S. (2020). Perspectives on Multi-Material Craft in Basic Education. International journal of Design and Art Education, 39(1), 255–270. https://doi.org/10.1111/jade.12263
Rönkkö, M.-L. & Härkki, T. (2024). Student Craft Teachers’ Choices During the Garment Design and Making Process: A Qualitative Analysis of Posters. Techne serien - Forskning i slöjdpedagogik och slöjdvetenskap, 31(3), 1–15. https://doi.org/10.7577/TechneA.5922
Sawyer, R. K. (2017). Teaching and Learning How to Create in Schools of Art and Design. Journal of the Learning Sciences, 27(1), 137–181. https://doi.org/10.1080/10508406.2017.1381963
Seitamaa-Hakkarainen, P., & Kangas, K. (2013). Craft education: Authentic design constraints, embodied thinking, and craft making, in J. B. Reitan, P. Lloyd, E. Bohemia, L. M. Nielsen, I. Digranes and E. Lutnæs (Eds), DRS Cumulus Oslo 2013 - Proceedings of the 2nd International Conference for Design Education Researchers, Vol. 1, 14-17 May, Oslo, Norway (pp. 1369–83). ABM Media. https://doi.org/10.21606/learnxdesign.2013.131
Seitamaa-Hakkarainen, P., Lahti, H., & Hakkarainen, K. (2005). Three design experiments for computer-supported collaborative design. Art, Design & Communication in Higher Education, 4(2), 101-119. https://doi.org/10.1386/adch.4.2.101/1
Seitamaa-Hakkarainen, P., Viilo, M., & Hakkarainen, K. (2010). Learning by collaborative designing: Technology-enhanced knowledge practices. International Journal of Technology and Design Education, 20(2), 109–136. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10798-008-9066-4
Viilo, M. (2020). Teacher’s orchestration in longitudinal collaborative inquiry process. Helsinki Studies in Education 77. PhD dissertation. University of Helsinki. http://hdl.handle.net/10138/315024
van der Lugt, R. (2005). How sketching can affect the idea generation process in design group meetings. Design Studies, 26, 101–22. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.destud.2004.08.003

Nedlastinger
Publisert
Hvordan referere
Utgave
Seksjon
Lisens
Opphavsrett 2025 Tellervo Härkki, Johanna Oksanen, Ana Nuutinen, Karoliina Laxtström, Anu Kylmänen, Marja-Leena Rönkkö

Dette verket er lisensiert under Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.
- Forfatteren(e) beholder sin opphavs- og kopieringsrett til eget manuskript, men gir tidsskriftet varig rett til 1) å fremføre manuskriptet for offentligheten i den opprinnelig publiserte digitale form, og 2) å registreres og siteres som første publisering av manuskriptet.
- Forfatteren må selv forvalte sine økonomiske kopieringsrettigheter overfor eventuell tredjepart.
- Tidsskriftet gir ingen økonomisk eller annen kompensasjon for innsendte bidrag, medmindre det er gjort særskilt avtale om dette med forfatteren(e).
- Tidsskriftet plikter å arkivere manuskriptet (inklusive metadata) i den opprinnelig publiserte digitale form, i minst ett dertil egnet åpent tilgjengelig langtidsarkiv for digitalt materiell, som for eksempel i de norske universitetenes institusjonsarkiv innen rammen av NORA-samarbeidet.
Verket vil bli publisert OpenAccess med en Creative Commons 4.0-lisens som tillater alle å lese, dele og tilpasse innholdet, også kommersielt, under lisensvilkårene:
Dette verket må tilskrives/ krediteres på riktig måte, en lenke må gis til CC-BY 4.0-lisensen, og endringer som er gjort må angis på en rimelig måte, men ikke på noen måte som antyder at lisensgiveren støtter deg eller din bruk.