Estonian and Norwegian Sheep Wool as a Textile Material

Properties and Possibilities for Use Based on the Example of the Wool of Six Sheep Breeds

Forfattere

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.7577/formakademisk.5450

Emneord (Nøkkelord):

local sheep breeds, testing of wool properties, wool value chain

Sammendrag

In Estonia, up to 90% of local wool is not adequately valued, while in Norway, due to the well-functioning wool-buying and -sorting system, a large part of local wool is used purposefully. However, both countries have room for improvement in terms of the better usage of local wool. This article provides an overview of the Estonian-Norwegian wool research conducted in from 2020 to 2023 and its main results. During the study, wool was collected from three Estonian and three Norwegian sheep breeds, semi-worsted yarn was made from it, and knitted and woven fabrics were produced. Wool, yarn, and fabrics were tested in numerous ways. The paper presents the main test results and suggests how wools with a wide range of qualities can be used in innovative ways to create textiles. The smart use of materials is based on the possibilities offered by medium-sized production and knowledge about local wool.

Forfatterbiografier

Ave Matsin, University Tartu, Viljandi Culture Academy

Lecturer (MA)

Merje Beilmann, TTK University of Applied Sciences 

Lecturer (MA)

 

Marte Espelien Blomli, Selbu spinneri AS

entrepreneur (M.sci.)

 

 

Astri Kaljus, University of Tartu Viljandi Culture Academy 

Lecturer (MA)

 

Liina Lehis, Muru spinning mill

entrepreneur

 

Ingvild Svorkmo Espelien, Selbu spinneri AS

 

entrepreneur (M.sci)

 

Diana Tuulik, University of Tartu Viljandi Culture Academy

Lecturer (MA, MBA)

TTK University of Applied Sciences 

 

Eli Wendelbo, University of South-Eastern Norway (USN) 

Assistant professor

 

Referanser

Alsborn, N. M. (2022). Meeting the material halfway: Exploring the material affordances in Norwegian Old Spæl Sheep spring wool using felting as technique. [Master’s Thesis University of South-Eastern Norway]. https://hdl.handle.net/11250/3028398

EVS-EN ISO 139:2005 Textiles - Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing.

EVS-EN 12751:2000 Textiles - Sampling of fibres, yarns and fabrics for testing.

Haugronning, V., Broda, J., Espelien, I. S., Klepp, I. G., Kobiela-Mendrek, K., Rom, M., Sigaard, A. S., & Tobiasson, T. S. (2022). Upping the WOOLUME: Waste prevention based on optimal use of materials. In I. G. Klepp, T. S. Tobiasson (Eds.), Local, Slow and Sustainable Fashion. Wool as a Fabric for Change (pp 61–82). Palgrave Macmillan. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-88300-3_8

Johnson, N. A.G., Wood, E. J., Ingham, P. E., McNeil, S. J., & McFarlane, I. D. (2003). Wool as a technical fibre. The Journal of the Textile Institute, 94(3–4), 26–41. https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000308630626

Matsin, A., Tali, K., Kabun, K., & Kool, L. (2022). Ülevaade Eesti villamajandusest [Overview of Estonian wool industry]. Studia Vernacula 14, 206–223. https://doi.org/10.12697/sv.2022.14

Matsin, A., Beilmann, M., Espelien Blomli, M., Kaljus, A., Lehis, L., Svorkmo Espelien, I., Tuulik, D., & Wendelbo, E., (2023). From Wool to Fabric. Estonian and Norwegian sheep’s wool as a textile material. Production, properties and possibilities of use on the example of the wool of six sheep breeds. University of Tartu Viljandi Culture Academy. https://sisu.ut.ee/sites/default/files/eestivill/files/wool_to_fabric_a4_12_0.pdf

Norsk sau og geit [The Norwegian Association of Sheep and Goat Farmers]. (2022, September 12). www.nsg.no

Põllumajanduse Registrite ja Informatsiooni Amet [Agricultural Registers and Information Agency]. (2022, August 16). https://www.pria.ee/sites/default/files/aruanded/Lammaste ja kitsede statistika.xlsx

Nedlastinger

Publisert

2023-09-20

Hvordan referere

Matsin, A., Beilmann, M., Blomli, M. E., Kaljus, A., Lehis, L., Espelien, I. S., Tuulik, D., & Wendelbo, E. (2023). Estonian and Norwegian Sheep Wool as a Textile Material: Properties and Possibilities for Use Based on the Example of the Wool of Six Sheep Breeds. FormAkademisk, 16(4). https://doi.org/10.7577/formakademisk.5450

Utgave

Vol 16 Nr. 4 (2023): Proceedings of BICCS 2023 - Biennial International Conference for the Craft Sciences. Special Issue

Seksjon

Artikler

Lisens

Opphavsrett 2023 Ave Matsin, Merje Beilmann, Marte Espelien Blomli, Astri Kaljus, Liina Lehis, Ingvild Svorkmo Espelien, Diana Tuulik

Creative Commons License

Dette verket er lisensiert under Creative Commons Attribution-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

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